Overclocking Guide

Discussion in 'C Programming' started by troy.john78@gmail.com, Nov 14, 2007.

  1. Guest

    Correct Overclocking - The Goals
    First and foremost, we want to

    * improve overall system performance
    * system to be just as stable
    * keep our CPU alive!!

    The best way to improve system performance is to increase the bus
    speed. If you can't do that, either because your motherboard doesn't
    support higher bus speeds or your RAM or your PCI devices aren't up to
    it, you can change the multiplier instead. Don't expect much gain in
    performance, however, if you increase the multiplier but you decrease
    the bus speed!!! For example, changing from 166 @ 2.5x66 MHz to 180 @
    3x60 MHz will actually decrease your overall performance. The same
    rule applies to changing from 133 @ 2x66 to 150 @ 3x50. These types of
    changes will not make your system any faster!!

    This is some touchy news for 6x86 users, who should really only
    overclock their CPUs to a slightly higher speed than the original. The
    6x86 only has multiplier options for x2 and x3. Don't let yourself be
    told otherwise!! Of course you can try jumpering the board to all of
    the different Intel Pentium settings, but it won't make a difference
    for the 6x86 CPU.

    Overclocking Requirements

    Three things are necessary for overclocking:

    1. The CPU : HA HA HA !!!

    * So far, Intel manufactures the CPUs with the highest quality,
    hence the probability of a successful overclocking is highest with
    Intel CPUs.
    * Check to make sure your Pentium isn't faked. If you can peel off
    a black sticker underneath the CPU, it's definitely a re-marked one.
    In this case your CPU is most likely already overclocked.

    2. The Motherboard

    * The quality of the motherboard is crucial for successful
    overclocking! Due to the fact that the CPU produces fewer 'clean'
    signals in overclocked mode, reflections and other flaws on the bus
    can cause the system to crash or hang. The reverse situation is also
    true - in overclocked mode the CPU is more sensitive to unstable
    signals from the bus and will crash if the motherboard can't deliver
    clean signals. Always go for a branded motherboard!
    * You will have to decide if you want to go for a higher bus speed
    or if you will stick to a maximum of 66 MHz.
    * The board should obviously support a wide range of CPU supply
    voltages. Minimum are 3.3 and 3.45 V, for STD and VRE voltage. If you
    want to use P55C, M2 (the new M1/6x86), or the new K5/K6 CPUs, you
    will need support for 'split voltage'. This means that the core of the
    CPU requires a lower supply voltage than the I/O ports of the CPU. The
    latest boards all support 2.5 up to 2.9 V in 0.1 Volt steps. If the
    board offers you an even higher voltage than 3.45 as well, you should
    be happy, because this might be the last trick to get your CPU
    successfully overclocked.

    3. The RAM

    * This topic is new, but it is very important indeed. You will
    have to consider decent RAM if you want to run your system at bus
    speeds of more than 66 MHz. If you want to run an HX board, such as
    the Asus P/I-P55T2P4 at 83 MHz bus speed, you will require high-end
    EDO. I've experienced myself, that the marking of the RAM is less
    important than it's brand. Be careful, however, that you don't get
    second-rate chips from the manufacturers being sold in some stores.
    These chips still say Siemens, Micron, or whatever on them, but their
    quality won't live up to your expectations. In the case of high bus
    speeds always go for SDRAM if you can. SDRAM relieves a lot of the
    worries of running at 75 or especially 83 MHz, and runs flawlessly in
    any case.

    4. The Cooling

    * I can't proclaim it often enough, the cooling of the CPU is
    extremely important ! If you have been able to boot your system with
    an overclocked CPU but it crashes within the first minutes, it's most
    likely due to insufficient cooling of your processor. Don't think the
    average small heat sinks with their small fans designed for a Pentium
    are able to do this job properly! Their job is only to keep a normally
    clocked CPU cooler in case you have very hot surroundings (e.g. SCSI
    or Video cards, which can get very hot as well). They are not designed
    to save your overclocked system from crashes due to overheating. This
    doesn't mean you always have to have better cooling. If you've got a
    new SSS CPU, using the 0.35µm die, it just won't get that hot.
    * If your CPU is of the old 0.6µm die size type, however, you will
    require decent cooling. To accomplish this, you can use heat sinks,
    fans, or both, peltiers, or peltiers with fans. Peltiers are elements
    which transport heat using an electrochemical method from one side of
    the element to the other, consuming energy. You will still need a heat
    sink to dissipate the heat from the non-CPU side of the peltier and
    most likely will also require a fan.
    * My opinion is that you should go for a heat sink, and most
    importantly THINK BIG !! If a big heat sink still can't do the job,
    add a fan on top of it. If you achieve this cooling effect, you can be
    sure that any crashes which do occur are not a result of overheating.
    So how to get a decent heat sink ? Don't even think of finding
    anything in a normal computer shop. You'll find professional heat
    sinks only in professional shops which sell electronic equipment such
    as transistors, resistors, chips, etc. (e.g. Hobby Electronic Stores).
    * You can tell how good a heat sink is by looking at the K/W
    value. K/W means degree Kelvin per Watt of power dissipation . K/W
    tells how hot the heat sink gets per each Watt of heating power of the
    device it's meant to cool. If you were able to follow that, you will
    understand that the smaller the value, the better the heat sink. If
    you can get a heat sink which has a value below 1K/W, you've found a
    good one. You'll need to make the surface of the heat sink that will
    attach to the top of the CPU match the size of your CPU (maybe the
    electronic shop will cut it for you, otherwise you'll have to do some
    sawing and grinding). Be careful that this surface stays completely
    flat, so that there are no gaps between the heat sink and the CPU
    surface. Finally, you only need to affix the heat sink to the CPU
    which is best done with some thermal compound (also available in every
    electronic shop). You can also use super glue, but it should be
    applied very sparingly with just enough to attach the heat sink. Do
    realize that you might not be able to remove the CPU from the heat
    sink if the super glue is good stuff. If required, attach a good
    (powerful + quiet) fan to the top of the heat sink (how, I will leave
    this up to your imagination).
    * You should also use besides these hardware solutions some
    software solutions like Rain , Waterfall or CPU Idle. These utilities
    execute halt instruction during the idle priority thread and thus
    keeping the CPU cool. I recommend use of Waterfall because of small
    footprint, no VXD's, no drain of any system resources and above all
    it's free.

    More articles about overclocking visit http.www.network.79br.com
    , Nov 14, 2007
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